Connecticut Fruit Growers Newsletter
April 10, 1997
IN THIS ISSUE:
* Subscription reminder
* New wording on Agri-Mek label
* Groundhog grief
* Do night rains count?
* Critical freezing temperatures
* Fabraea control begins soon
* Brown rot infection conditions
* Black knot: fungicides and sanitation
* Fireblight information is available
SUBSCRIPTION REMINDER
If you have not returned the subscription invoice (or a reasonable substitute), this will be your last issue of Fruit Growers Newsletter. If you don't recall, or didn't get your check back from the bank, you can ask Rochelle to look for your name on her new list. Call her at 860-486-2928. Or call my number day or night: 860-486-1944.
If we have your renewal request the word PAID will be on your mailing label to the right of your name.
Otherwise, send a check for $11.00, payable to University of Connecticut, C.E.S., and mail to Fruit Growers Newsletter; Department of Plant Science, U-67, 1376 Storrs Road, Storrs, CT 06269-4067.
AGRI-MEK WITHOUT OIL?
Merck has revised the Agri-Mek label in regard to tank mixing with oil to enhance Agri-Mek penetration into foliage. Agri-Mek does not move into the leaf very well on its own; a penetration enhancer is still needed. For APPLES the label now says AFor best results, apply in combination with horticultural oil (not a dormant oil). Applications without horticultural spray oil may result in reduced efficacy and/or residual control. The purpose of the change in wording, as I understand, is to permit use of certain surfactants in lieu of oil. Merck is not mentioning any names but I have heard that silicone surfactants have been used with Agri-Mek in some instances. I don't know how effective they are compared to oil, or which brands might be most suitable.
I suppose one might be tempted to use a silicone surfactant instead of oil where Captan is to be used about the same time, because Captan can burn leaves when used within 7-10 days of oil. However, I don't know that anyone has demonstrated that these new surfactants can't also increase Captan penetration. Two years ago I noticed a great amount of leaf spotting, resembling frogeye leafspot, on certain Empire trees in my orchard, in June. It was in an area where I had applied some treatments with Accel thinner, plus Kinetic (a silicone surfactant). Captan was the regular fungicide used during that period. No defoliation, but I would like to avoid that kind of thing. I am not sure this was kinetic-induced Captan injury, yet I would not risk using that combination again unless another trial showed it to be safe.
Note that the label still requires a tank mix with horticultural spray oil (not a dormant oil) for use on pears.
WOODCHUCK BURROWS
Woodchucks are starting new families within their burrows now. April is a good time to stop their development, where unwanted in orchards. Like people, these animals prefer to remain indoors on cold nights, but when the evenings become hot, they may spend much of the night out of their den, making it difficult to be sure they are home when you want to treat them.
Smoke bombs containing sodium nitrate and sulfur are effective in killing woodchucks that are within the burrows when the bombs are lit. Giant Destroyer is the brand of bomb I find available locally in hardware stores.
Woodchuck dens may contain one, two, or three openings. These must all be sealed when the smoking is done, to prevent escape of the smoke. Scout the orchard during daylight to find all the holes. Smoking should be done after sunset. Bombs are ignited with a short fuse, started with a match or cigarette lighter. Speed is important. Seal all but one hole, install the bomb in the last open hole, then quickly cover that hole also. A board over the hole, plus soil shoveled over the board will keep the smoke in, but I'm looking for a faster, easier method. This season I plan to try sandbags, or whatever is available that comes close to that description. Perhaps sand-crete bags, or limestone bags will have to do. I'll place a small board over the holes before adding the sandbag, to prevent inhabitants from tearing the bag open. I would hope to collect the bags the next morning, for re-use.
SCAB: IGNORE NIGHT-INITIATED WET HOURS?
Research in New Hampshire and New York has shown that, typically, 96-97% of the ascospores that eject from infected leaves during a given wetting event are ejected between 8 AM and 7 PM (D.S.T.). Consequently, the New England Apple Pest Management Guide (NEAPMG) no longer uses the original Mills Table and method for predicting scab infections. The original table and method were based upon the assumption that ascospore discharge was not influenced by time of day.
Suppose an all-night rain begins at 7:15 PM, and leaves are not dry until 4 PM the following day. By the new method, you figure spores began to discharge at 8 AM, rather than during the previous night. Counting hours from 8 AM to 4 PM, you have 8 hours of wet time. Suppose the average temperature were 54oF. The revised Mills Table on page 8 of the NEAPMG shows no infection is possible with less than 82 hours wet at 54oF average temperature.
So you conclude there was no infection in your orchard. That will be a pretty safe assumption unless there was a lot of scab in your orchard last year. Going back to that 3 or 4% of ascospores that typically shot after 7 PM, the number of spores that became airborne would be low if there were few scabby leaves on the orchard floor. But 3 or 4% of a lot of spores might be a lot.
The bottom line: If you had more scab than usual last year, figure your hours wet and average temperature both the new and the old way. Then make your own choice. There is no guarantee with these methods.
FLOWER-KILLING TEMPERATURES
FABRAEA LEAF SPOT OF PEARS
Plan to begin a fungicide program at the Green Cluster stage where this fungal disease has been present in previous years. Benlate at 2-3 oz per 100 gallons, plus one of the other labeled fungicides at half rate (ferbam, ziram, or mancozeb) are usually effective at 10-14 day intervals through early June. Where Benlate has been used a lot in previous years, there is a possibility of resistance. Mancozeb alone at 1.5 lbs Manzate 200 per 100 gallons dilute equivalent, was as good as Benlate (4 oz.) and better than other labeled fungicides in 1991 trials by David Rosenberger in the Hudson Valley. A three week spray interval is usually adequate during the summer. Information in the Compendium of Apple and Pear Diseases indicates that primary infections are caused by spores that are carried from fallen leaves and twig cankers within pear trees by rain, rather than by air currents. Secondary infections can originate from primary or secondary infection during wet periods.
BROWN ROT OF STONE FRUITS: INFECTION CONDITIONS
Under field conditions brown rot infection is unlikely before flower pistils are exposed. Pistils are highly susceptible to infection, and they often protrude from blossoms even before petals have opened. Infection requires rain or heavy dew, or near 100% relative humidity, for a time that varies with temperature. The table below, from work by Dr. Wayne Wilcox at Geneva, NY, illustrates the relationship of temperature and hours wetness to probability of infection.
|
Temperature |
Percent of blossoms Infected |
|||
|
C |
F |
5 hours wet |
10 hours wet |
24 hours wet |
|
8 |
46 |
5 |
21 |
85-97 |
|
12 |
54 |
7 |
78 |
85-97 |
|
16 |
61 |
28 |
90 |
85-97 |
|
20 |
68 |
72 |
98 |
85-97 |
This table shows that infection developed in 85-97% of blossoms treated with brown rot spores if blossoms were kept at 46F for 24 hours.
It is unlikely that any commercial peach orchard would develop 85-97% blossom blight after 24 hours of wetness, because infection incidence is related to inoculum density. Flowers directly beneath a brown rot mummy would have a 85-97% probability of being infected, but the relatively low inoculum density in an orchard with few mummies and brown rot twig cankers would result in little infection at temperatures in the 40's and 50's.
The source of brown rot spores is brown rot cankers on twigs infected the previous year, and brown rot fruit mummies in stone fruit trees or on the ground. Spores are carried by both wind and rain.
BLACK KNOT ON PLUMS
(From a 1994 article by Dr. David Rosenberger, in Scaffolds)
Following is a summary from a 1992-93 fungicide trial conducted at the Hudson Valley lab in Highland:
Black knot on plums can be controlled only by using a combination of sanitation (removing knots from trees annually) and effective fungicides applied from the popcorn flower stage through second cover. In 1992, several fungicides for black knot were evaluated at the Hudson Valley Lab. Infections occurring in 1992 developed during and after bloom in 1993. (Black knot usually requires two years to develop before knots become full grown and black.) As shown in the table below, Bravo is the most effective fungicide for controlling black knot. Note that in our trial we used Bravo at the highest label rate in five applications, including two applications after petal fall, so as to avoid confounding our test results by using two different fungicides within the same season. However, Bravo must not be applied to plums after petal fall in commercial orchards because applications after petal fall may cause fruit injury and are therefore prohibited on the label.
The best strategy for controlling black knot involves the following:
1. During winter or early spring, prune out and burn all knots found in the orchard and in wild plum and cherry trees in adjacent hedgerows.
2. Use Bravo as labeled to control brown rot blossom blight at popcorn, full bloom, and petal fall, or at approximately 7-10 day intervals starting at popcorn.
3. Use Captan or a Captan/Topsin M combination in sprays at shuck split and first cover.
Other researchers have shown that none of the other fungicides labeled for brown rot on plums will control black knot. Thus, neither Funginex nor Roval is effective against black knot, not are any of the SI fungicides that might eventually be labeled for controlling brown rot on plums.
FIREBLIGHT REVIEW
If you saw fireblight in your orchard last year, be sure to review the information on pages 21, 22 of the 1996-1997 New England Apple Pest Management Guide. For additional information, you may request a copy of the 91 page booklet Fire Blight - Its Nature, Prevention, and Control; a 1995 revised USDA publication by van der Zwet and Beer. Contact Agricultural Publications Bulletin Room, 8 AM - 4 PM, at 860-486-3336.
_________________________________
David A. Kollas
Extension Pomologist
Phone: 860-486-1944
FAX: 860-486-0682
dkollas@canr1.cag.uconn.edu